FOMO Group · 18 April — 4 May 2025 · 8 travellers

Việt Nam

Seventeen days from the lakes of Hanoi to the floating markets of the Mekong, by junk boat, night train, motorbike, and bowl of phở.

North Central South ✓ Trip complete
01 — At a glance

Quick facts

Vietnam in twelve numbers — the country, then the trip.

100M
people
2023 population — among the top 15 in the world
331,690
km²
2.5× the size of Greece
1,650
km — north to south
the long S-shape, two big rivers at the ends
VND
đồng
~32,000 ≈ £1 · everyone is a millionaire
+84
dialing code
54
ethnic groups
Kinh ~85 % · the rest in highlands & deltas
50M+
motorbikes
on a population of 100M — yes, that many
#2
global coffee exporter
behind only Brazil · 18–20 % of world supply
8
UNESCO sites
we visited 6 of them
17
days on this trip
8
travellers in the FOMO Group
3
regions covered
Bắc · Trung · Nam — North, Central, South
02 — By the numbers

The trip we made

Easter Bank Holidays 2025. Eight of us, seventeen days, six cities, and a strong rotation of phở and cà phê sữa đá.

6
cities
Hanoi · Ha Long · Ninh Binh · Hue · Hoi An · HCMC
6 / 8
UNESCO sites visited
missed only Phong Nha & the Hồ Citadel
7+
modes of transport
plane · overnight train · cruise · bus · taxi · cycle · motorbike · boat
3
Michelin meals in Hanoi
Bún Chả Đắc Kim · Gia · Tâm Vị
2
nights on a junk boat
Indochine Grand Cruise · Ha Long → Lan Ha
bowls of phở
03 — Where we went

The itinerary

Top to bottom. North to South. Six anchor stops, three regions, one long S-shaped country.

South China Sea Hanoi 18 — 22 Apr Ha Long Bay 22 — 23 Apr Ninh Binh 23 — 24 Apr Hue 25 — 26 Apr Hoi An / Da Nang 26 — 29 Apr Saigon (HCMC) 30 Apr — 3 May Mekong
The route — top to bottom by plane, train and overnight cruise.
Bắc · North

Northern Vietnam

18 — 25 April 2025

The capital and the karsts. Old-world charm folded into modern energy: lakes, lanterns, train tracks, and the limestone wonders of Ha Long Bay and the “Ha Long on land” of Ninh Binh.

Weather: Late-April warm-and-humid with the occasional shower. Layer up — temperatures swing day to night.

Hanoi 18 — 22 Apr

Capital, 8.5M people, on the Red River. Hà Nội means “inside the river.” Old Quarter for the buzz, Tay Ho for the lakeside, Hoan Kiem for the postcard.

Stay

AirBnB for 8, Walking Street · 33B Phạm Ngũ Lão, Hoàn Kiếm · £445.18 total.

Landmarks

  • Old Quarter — the busy maze of narrow streets & shophouses
  • Hoàn Kiếm Lake — Lake of the Restored Sword, with the Turtle Tower
  • Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum — Ba Dinh Square
  • Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu) — Vietnam’s first university
  • One Pillar Pagoda — lotus-shaped Buddhist temple
  • Train Street (Đường Tàu) — train passes meters from cafes
  • Cầu Long Biên — 1902 cantilever bridge over the Red River
  • Hanoi Opera House · St Joseph’s Cathedral (neo-Gothic)

Museums

  • Vietnam Museum of Ethnology — 54 ethnic groups
  • Hỏa Lò Prison (Hanoi Hilton) — French colonial & war history
  • Bát Tràng Pottery Museum — modern + workshops
  • Vietnamese Women’s Museum

Eat ★ Michelin

  • Bún Chả Đắc Kim — Michelin street-food: vermicelli with smoky pork & nước chấm
  • Gia — Michelin, expensive · chef Sam Tran’s love letter home
  • Tâm Vị — Michelin, vintage North-Vietnamese tea-house feel

Coffee

  • Tranquil Books & Coffee · Loading T (vintage French colonial)
  • Xofa · Lermalermer · Laika (5th-floor view of Hoàn Kiếm)

Evenings

  • Thăng Long Water Puppet Theatre — folklore on water
  • Weekend Night Market in the Old Town · Bia Hoi Corner
  • Sunset at West Lake (Hồ Tây)

Shopping

  • MasterTan — herbal teas & coconut soaps
  • TiredCity Creative Store — Vietnamese artists, prints, apparel

Day trips

  • Mai Châu Valley — Muong tribes & rice terraces (cycle tour, £37.32 pp)
  • Quang Phú Cầu Incense Village & Chuông Conical Hat Village — handicraft towns (£24.78)

Ha Long Bay Cruise 22 — 23 Apr

UNESCO World Heritage. Thousands of limestone islands carved by millions of years of erosion, rising from emerald water. A two-day, one-night cruise on Indochine Grand Cruise.

Day 1 — Hanoi → Ha Long → Lan Ha Bay
  • Transfer to Tuần Châu Harbor (~170 km E of Hanoi, 2.5–3.5 h by road)
  • 11:30 — Check-in at Indochina Lounge, Tuần Châu Port
  • 11:45 — Embark, welcome drink, safety briefing
  • 13:15 — Buffet lunch as we sail past Lan Ha Bay’s islands
  • 15:30 — Dark & Bright Cave (Bat Cave grotto)
  • 16:30 — Swimming in the bay
  • 17:30 — Sundeck / pool / mini-golf
  • 18:15 — Fruit & vegetable carving class with the Head Chef
  • 19:30 — Fine-dining dinner
  • 20:30 — Squid fishing & board games under the night sky
Day 2 — Lan Ha → Ha Long → Tam Cốc
  • 06:00 — Continental light breakfast
  • 06:15 — Tai Chi on the sundeck
  • 07:15 — Trung Trang Cave on Cat Ba Island (~30 min)
  • 09:30 — Check-out, scenic brunch as we approach the pier
  • 11:00 — Disembark at Tuần Châu, transfer onwards

Ninh Binh — “Ha Long on land” 23 — 24 Apr

Limestone karsts again, this time inland: rivers winding between mountains, rice paddies, hidden temples. ~2.5 h from Hanoi.

Note: rice fields are lush Sept–Dec — in April they’re in another phase. The town itself isn’t pretty; stay in Tam Cốc, not Ninh Binh city.

Stay

Tam Cốc Orchid Hotel & Spa · Duong Tam Coc, Ninh Hai · £140 total · breakfast included.

Day 1 — arrive & cycle

  • Transfer from Ha Long Bay
  • Cycle the countryside — picturesque villages, hidden valleys

Day 2 — GetYourGuide tour

  • 08:00 — Pickup from hotel
  • 09:00 — Hoa Lư, ancient capital (968 — 1010), Đinh & Lê dynasties
  • 10:00 — Bái Đính Temple — Southeast Asia’s largest pagoda complex (500 stone Arhats, 36-ton bronze bell, 100-ton Buddha)
  • 12:00 — Local lunch
  • 13:30 — Tràng An wooden-boat tour through caves & karsts (UNESCO, in Kong: Skull Island)
  • 15:30 — Mua Cave — 500 steps to Dragon Mountain & sunset over Hoa Lư
  • 17:20 — Bus back

Onwards · night train

New Livitrans Express — Ninh Binh → Hue, departs 21:51, arrives 09:13.

Trung · Central

Central Vietnam

25 — 30 April 2025

Imperial Hue, the lantern alleys of Hoi An, the cinematic Hai Van Pass, and a crash course in the Cham Kingdom. The most romantic stretch of the trip.

Weather: Hot, with afternoon tropical showers possible. Sun protection & a light rain layer.

Hue — the imperial capital 25 — 26 Apr

Vietnam’s former imperial seat under the Nguyễn Dynasty. Citadel walls, royal tombs, the Perfume River, and a quieter rhythm than the bigger cities.

Stay

AirBnB near Thành phố Huế (15 guest cap) · 180 Phạm Văn Đồng · £108.62 total.

Landmarks

  • Imperial Citadel — UNESCO, the Nguyễn political & cultural heart
  • Thiên Mụ Pagoda — seven-storey, on the Perfume River
  • Tombs of the Emperors — grand burial complexes
  • Perfume River boat ride

Hai Van Pass & Marble Mountains 26 Apr

The “Ocean Cloud Pass” — the cinematic mountain road from Hue to Da Nang. One of the great drives of Asia.

  • An Bang Cemetery — the “City of Ghosts,” elaborate ancestor shrines
  • Lăng Cô Beach — white sand backed by mountains & lagoon
  • Lập An Lagoon — calm waters, oyster farms, mountain reflections
  • Hai Van Pass viewpoint & the historic Hai Van Gate (19th c. fortification)
  • Marble Mountains & My Khe Beach — five limestone hills, ancient pagodas, hidden caves
  • Sơn Trà Peninsula & Linh Ứng Pagoda — Vietnam’s tallest Lady Buddha (67 m)

Hoi An — the lantern town 26 — 29 Apr

UNESCO ancient town, Japanese-Chinese-French heritage layered in wooden shophouses. Lantern-lit by night, riverside by morning.

Landmarks

  • Ancient Town — pedestrian, lantern-lit alleys
  • Japanese Bridge — 18th-century covered bridge with central pagoda
  • Tan Ky Ancient House — 200-year-old merchant home
  • Précieux Heritage Gallery by photographer Réhahn — free
  • Hoi An Night Market — Nguyễn Hoàng Street
  • An Bang Beach — turquoise & cafes

Activities

  • Tailoring at Bebe Tailor — quality custom garments in 1–2 days
  • Lantern-making workshop — go home with a souvenir you made
  • Tra Que Vegetable Village — cycle the organic farming village
  • Sunset boat ride on the Thu Bon River
  • Red Bridge Cooking School — market shop + spring rolls + bánh xèo
  • Cao Lầu at Thanh Cao Lầu — the Hoi An noodle

Day trips

  • My Son Sanctuary — UNESCO Cham Kingdom Hindu ruins (70 monuments, 9 centuries)
  • Bà Nà Hills & the Golden Bridge — cable car up, the iconic stone-hands bridge

Da Nang on the way south 29 Apr

A stop on the way from Hoi An to HCMC.

  • Dragon Bridge — fire & water shows on weekends
  • Han River Night Market — street food & crafts
  • Museum of Cham Sculpture — context for My Son
  • Sun World Da Nang Wonders — theme park, all ages
Nam · South

Southern Vietnam

30 April — 4 May 2025

Saigon’s commerce and chaos, the Cu Chi Tunnels of the war, the syncretic Cao Đài Temple, and the floating markets of the Mekong Delta. Bánh xèo and cơm tấm by the bowl.

Weather: Early-May hot & humid, brief showers possible. Light, breathable layers.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) 30 Apr — 1 May

Vietnam’s commercial heart and former Saigon. French-colonial bones, motorbike arteries, rooftop bars.

Landmarks & museums

  • War Remnants Museum — confronting; bring water & time
  • Reunification Palace — preserved rooms, tanks, history
  • Notre-Dame Cathedral & the Central Post Office — French colonial
  • Bến Thành Market — handicrafts, produce, street food
  • Jade Emperor Pagoda — peaceful, intricate carvings
  • Bitexco Sky Deck — panoramic city view

Evening

  • Bùi Viện Street — backpacker nightlife
  • Saigon River — boat ride / dinner cruise
  • Tao Đàn Park — green respite in the chaos

Củ Chi Tunnels & Cao Đài Temple 2 May

A day trip ~1.5–2 h from HCMC.

  • Củ Chi Tunnels — the underground network used by Việt Cộng soldiers during the war. Engineering, daily life, and a sobering hour underground.
  • Cao Đài Temple — on the way back, a syncretic religion blending Buddhism, Catholicism, Taoism & more. Ceremonies are a sight.

Mekong Delta & Bình Quới Village 3 May

The river country: floating markets, lush orchards, traditional homes, a slower rural Vietnam.

  • Boat ride & floating markets — vendors selling directly from their boats
  • Cycle through villages — rice paddies, traditional homes
  • Bình Quới Village — floating houses & local artisans

Flight back to London 4 May

17 days. Six cities. Three regions. ∞ phở. Going home …… :(

04 — World Heritage

UNESCO sites — six of eight

Vietnam has 8 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We saw 6 of them on this trip.

Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long

Hanoi · the millennium-old political centre of north Vietnam.

Ha Long Bay — Cát Bà Archipelago

The signature limestone karsts rising from the Gulf of Tonkin.

Tràng An Landscape Complex

Ninh Binh · karsts inland, river-cave network, Kong: Skull Island.

Complex of Hué Monuments

The Imperial Citadel, royal tombs, pagodas of the Nguyễn Dynasty.

Hội An Ancient Town

The lantern-lit trading port, preserved 18th–19th c. shophouses.

Mỹ Sơn Sanctuary

70 Cham-Kingdom Hindu ruins, 4th–14th c., a day-trip from Hoi An.

Phong Nha — Kẻ Bàng National Park

Caves & karst forests, including the largest cave on Earth (Hang Sơn Đoòng) — for next time.

Citadel of the Hồ Dynasty

Thanh Hóa · 14th-c. stone fortress — also for next time.

05 — The land

Vietnam, briefly

A long S along the Indochinese coast — China to the north, Laos and Cambodia to the west, an ocean of culture out to the east.

Geography

Vietnam stretches ~1,650 km top to bottom along the eastern edge of the Indochina peninsula. Borders: China to the north, Laos and Cambodia to the west, the South China Sea to the east.

The S-shape gives it three very different regions: mountainous highlands in the north and centre, fertile deltas at both ends — the Red River around Hanoi, the Mekong around Saigon — and a 3,260 km coastline all the way down. Marine industries, fishing and shipping carry a big share of the economy.

People & languages

~100 million people, growing fast and increasingly urban. The Kinh (Việt) are the majority at ~85 %; the remaining ~15 % is split across 53 other officially recognised ethnic groups — Tày, Thái, Hmong, Dao, Khmer, Cham, and many more, mostly in the highlands and deltas.

The official language is Vietnamese (Tiếng Việt) — six tones, written in a Latin-based script (Quốc Ngữ) introduced by Portuguese and French missionaries from the 17th c. onwards. Older generations may still know French; younger Vietnamese increasingly speak English; and curiously, more people speak Russian than English — a legacy of the USSR-aligned years.

Religion

Vietnam’s religious life is famously syncretic — and ~75 % of people identify as non-religious in surveys, even while everyone is involved in folk practices, ancestor veneration, and temple festivals.

The biggest formal traditions: Mahayana Buddhism (often blended with Confucianism & Taoism), Catholicism (a French-colonial inheritance), and small but vibrant communities of Hòa Hảo, Cao Đài (a 20th-c. invention that mixes Buddhism, Catholicism, Taoism, Confucianism & folk religion), Islam (Cham), Hinduism, and Protestantism.

Government

A one-party socialist republic, run by the Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV). The President is head of state, the Prime Minister handles day-to-day governance, the National Assembly is elected within a one-party framework.

The economic story flipped in 1986 with the Đổi Mới (“Renovation”) reforms — opened to foreign investment, market-oriented, integrated into the global economy. Growth has been rapid since. Critics flag press freedom, censorship, and human-rights concerns.

Climate

Tropical and varied along the long coast. Roughly:

  • North (Hanoi): four soft seasons; cool winter (10–18 °C), hot & humid summer.
  • Central (Hue, Hoi An): hot most of the year; rainy season Sep–Dec, brief tropical storms.
  • South (HCMC, Mekong): two seasons — dry (Dec–Apr) and wet (May–Nov); always warm.

Why “Việt Nam”?

The name comes from Chinese: Việt for the Việt people, Nam for south — “the southern regions of the Việt people.” It was formalised by the Nguyễn Dynasty in the early 19th c., reaching its final form under Emperor Gia Long.

06 — How we got here

A short history

Two thousand years of pushing back: against Chinese rule, French colonisation, then Cold-War proxy war. Resilience is the through-line.

  1. ~ 2879 BCE

    Văn Lang — the first Vietnamese state

    The semi-legendary kingdom of Văn Lang in the Red River Delta, under the Hùng Kings. Rice cultivation, regional tribes unified into a shared cultural identity. Archaeology — the famous Đông Sơn drums — points to an advanced Bronze Age society trading across Southeast Asia.

  2. 111 BCE — 939 CE

    A millennium of Chinese rule

    Han China incorporates the north as a province. For nearly a thousand years, Chinese administrative systems, Confucian principles, literary traditions, and Mahayana Buddhism reshape Vietnamese life. Frequent rebellions — the Trưng Sisters in 40 CE most famously — show a stubborn appetite for autonomy.

  3. 939 CE

    Independence at the Bạch Đằng River

    Ngô Quyền defeats the Southern Han fleet by hiding iron-tipped stakes in the riverbed, exposed at low tide as the enemy ships came in. A thousand years of foreign rule end. The Lý and Trần dynasties follow — Buddhism flourishes, the territory expands south, and three Mongol invasions (under Kublai Khan) are repelled in the 13th century.

  4. 1858 — 1954

    French colonisation

    From the mid-19th c., France colonises Vietnam, folding it into French Indochina alongside Cambodia and Laos. Western-style education, French architecture, Catholicism — and deep social inequalities that fuel a nationalist movement. After WWII, Hồ Chí Minh declares independence on 2 September 1945; France refuses to recognise it. The First Indochina War follows; sovereignty is finally won at the Battle of Điện Biên Phủ (1954). The Geneva Accords temporarily divide the country at the 17th parallel.

  5. 1955 — 1975

    The Vietnam War

    A protracted Cold-War conflict between communist North Vietnam (backed by the USSR & China) and South Vietnam (backed primarily by the United States). Guerrilla warfare, aerial bombings, the use of defoliants like Agent Orange with environmental and health consequences that linger today. Millions died or were displaced; the country’s infrastructure was devastated. The fall of Saigon on 30 April 1975 ends the war and unifies the country under socialist government.

  6. 1986 — today

    Đổi Mới & the rise

    Vietnam opens its economy with the Đổi Mới reforms — market mechanisms within socialist politics. Foreign investment pours in, manufacturing booms, the country becomes a top-five global exporter of rice, the world’s second-largest of coffee, and a darling of Asian growth. Today: ~100M people, fast-modernising, deeply tied to global trade — and still proudly its own.

07 — What to eat

Vietnamese food, by region

Three cuisines really, threaded with rice, herbs, fish sauce, and the world’s great noodle soups. Below: nation-wide hits, then the specialties of each region.

Across the country

Phở national

The icon. Aromatic broth (beef star-anise-cinnamon-clove or chicken), rice noodles, herbs, lime, chilli. Northern phở is clearer; southern is sweeter, more loaded. Breakfast food, traditionally.

Bánh mì sandwich

French baguette × Vietnamese filling: pâté, cold cuts, pickled daikon & carrot, cucumber, coriander, chilli, mayo. The post-colonial culinary masterpiece.

Gỏi cuốn fresh rolls

Translucent rice paper around shrimp, pork, vermicelli, herbs. Cold, fresh, dipped in peanut hoisin or nước chấm.

Chả giò fried rolls

The crispy cousin: minced pork, mushroom, glass noodles in fried rice paper. Eat with lettuce wrap & herbs.

Bún chả grilled pork

Smoky grilled pork patties & pork belly in a sweet-tart fish-sauce broth, with vermicelli and a fistful of herbs. The Hanoi lunch.

Bánh xèo crispy crepe

Sizzling turmeric-coconut crepe filled with shrimp, pork, beansprouts. Wrap in lettuce, dip, eat with hands.

Bún bò Huế central

Spicy, lemongrass-fragrant beef noodle soup originating in Huế — bigger noodles than phở, more attitude.

Cơm tấm broken rice

Saigon staple. Broken rice with grilled pork chop, shredded pork skin, fried egg, pickled veg.

Bánh cuốn breakfast

Steamed paper-thin rice rolls filled with minced pork & wood-ear mushroom; nước chấm on the side.

Chè dessert

The dessert family — sweet soups & puddings with coconut milk, mung beans, jelly, taro, sticky rice.

Cà phê trứng Hanoi

Egg coffee. Whipped egg yolk with condensed milk, foamed onto strong dark Vietnamese coffee. Tastes like tiramisu in a cup. Hanoi specialty — born of a 1940s milk shortage.

Cà phê sữa đá iced

Iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. Sharp, syrupy, perfect in heat. Tip: ask them to skip extra syrup, it’s sweet enough.

Bánh tráng nướng street

“Vietnamese pizza” — grilled rice paper topped with quail egg, dried shrimp, scallions, sometimes cheese.

Xôi sticky rice

Savoury (shredded chicken, fried shallots) or sweet (mung bean). Wrapped in banana leaf; breakfast on a motorbike.

Tropical fruit

Dragon fruit, rambutan, mangosteen, durian (brave it), longan, custard apple, jackfruit — all in season at different points of the year.

North · Bắc

Phở Bắc

The original phở — clear, subtle broth, less herb-heavy than the south.

Bún chả Hanoi

The Hanoi style we already loved — and still the best place to eat it.

Chả cá Lã Vọng

Turmeric-marinated white fish, sautéed table-side with dill & spring onion.

Bánh cuốn

Light, delicate steamed rolls — quintessential Hanoi breakfast.

Central · Trung

Bún bò Huế

Spicy lemongrass beef noodle soup, the south-central icon.

Mì Quảng

Thick turmeric noodles in a light broth, topped with shrimp, peanuts, rice crackers.

Cao Lầu

Hoi An only. Chewy noodles, pork slices, fresh greens, crispy croutons. Said to use water from a single ancient well.

Bánh bèo

Steamed rice cakes topped with dried shrimp, scallions, crispy fried shallots.

Cơm hến

Hue. Rice with baby clams, peanuts, herbs, spicy broth on the side.

South · Nam

Bánh xèo (Southern)

Larger and crispier than the central version; lettuce-and-herbs wrap.

Cơm tấm

The Saigon plate. Grilled pork chops, shredded skin, fried egg.

Bánh khọt

Mini crispy pancakes with shrimp, coconut milk, scallions.

Hủ tiếu

HCMC noodle soup — pork or seafood, ethnic Chinese roots.

Chè ba màu

“Three-colour dessert” — beans, jelly, coconut milk, ice. Cooling.

08 — Tiếng Việt

Survival Vietnamese

Vietnamese has six tones — same syllable, six meanings. Approximate as best you can; the effort is appreciated. Pronunciations below in brackets.

The five

  • Xin chào sin chow — Hello
  • Cảm ơn gahm un — Thank you
  • Cái này bao nhiêu tiền? guy nay bao new tian — How much is this?
  • Nhà vệ sinh ở đâu? nyah veh sinh uh dow — Where is the toilet?
  • Tôi cần giúp đỡ toy kun zyoop duh — I need help

Polite

  • Vâng / Không — Yes / No
  • Xin lỗi — Sorry / excuse me
  • Tạm biệt — Goodbye
  • Không sao — No problem
  • Dạ — Polite affirmative (use freely; it’s respectful)
  • Anh / Chị / Em — Older brother / sister / younger — used as “you” depending on relative age

At a meal

  • Ngon quá! — Delicious!
  • Tính tiền — The bill, please
  • Cay — Spicy · Không cay — Not spicy
  • Một bia — One beer · Cà phê sữa đá — iced milk coffee
  • Nước — Water · Đá — Ice
  • Chúc sức khoẻ! — Cheers / “to health”
  • Một, hai, ba — Yo! — One, two, three — drink! (the toast)

Numbers

  • một — 1
  • hai — 2
  • ba — 3
  • bốn — 4
  • năm — 5
  • sáu — 6
  • bảy — 7
  • tám — 8
  • chín — 9
  • mười — 10
  • trăm — 100
  • nghìn — 1,000

Getting around

  • Ở đâu…? — Where is…?
  • Bao xa? — How far?
  • Tôi muốn đi… — I want to go to…
  • Đắt quá! — Too expensive! (open of a bargain)
  • Giảm giá được không? — Can you lower the price?
09 — The small print

Tips, etiquette & fun facts

The little things that helped — and the trivia that made everyone go “oh, really?”

Apps & logistics

  • Grab — the local Uber. Use it for taxis & bikes everywhere. grab.com/vn
  • Tap water — don’t. Bottled or filtered. Avoid ice in cheap places, fresh fruit washed in tap water.
  • Street food — eat at busy stalls, food cooked in front of you. Build up tolerance over the first few days.
  • Bargaining is normal in markets & small shops; start at half the asking price, meet in the middle. Not done in malls or chain stores with marked prices.

Money

  • Currency: Vietnamese đồng (VND). ~32,000 VND ≈ £1.
  • Big bills are easy to confuse — the 20k and 500k notes look similar; double-check before paying.
  • Cards work in cities; cash for markets, street food, small towns.
  • USD is sometimes accepted but you’ll get a worse rate; keep VND.

Etiquette

  • Take shoes off when entering homes & some temples.
  • Cover shoulders & knees in temples and pagodas.
  • Don’t point feet at people or images of Buddha.
  • Avoid loud public displays of affection.
  • Use both hands when giving/receiving something to/from elders — small gesture, big respect.

National & cultural

  • National flower: the lotus — purity rising from the mud.
  • Traditional dress: the áo dài — silk tunic with trousers, worn by women and men.
  • Most common surname: Nguyễn — held by ~40 % of the population.
  • Water puppetry — a 1,000-year-old traditional art form, performed knee-deep in water.
  • The kitchen god — Vietnam is one of the only countries with a deity for the kitchen (Ông Táo); on the 23rd of the 12th lunar month, families send him to heaven on a carp.

Wild numbers

  • 50M+ motorbikes — half the population, basically. Expect them on pavements, going the wrong way, carrying entire families.
  • #2 coffee exporter in the world, behind only Brazil — 18–20 % of global supply.
  • “King of cashews” — Vietnam is among the world’s largest cashew exporters.
  • Hang Sơn Đoòng — the largest cave in the world, in Phong Nha. Has its own cloud, river and jungle inside.
  • ~75 % of the population identifies as non-religious in surveys, though folk practices & ancestor veneration are nearly universal.

Things you might be offered

  • Trứng vịt lộn — fertilised duck egg. Iconic; not for everyone.
  • Snake wine (rượu thuốc) — preserved with a cobra inside the bottle.
  • Dog meat — declining in popularity, especially among younger people, but still around.
  • Fried chicken heads / feet — a beer-snack tradition.
  • Durian — the king of fruits, banned from many hotels for the smell. Try it once.

The “Ma” trick

Ma is the most-meanings word in the Vietnamese language. The same syllable, depending on the tone, can mean:

  • ma — ghost
  • — mother / cheek
  • — but / which
  • mả — tomb
  • — horse / code
  • mạ — rice seedling

Welcome to a tonal language.

The split

  • The North was Soviet-aligned; the South was US-allied.
  • The North won — Hồ Chí Minh’s government took Saigon in April 1975, renaming it after him.
  • One legacy: more older Vietnamese speak Russian than English. The younger generations have flipped that.
  • Vietnamese on average are short — among the shortest national average heights in the world. The chairs and tables in older cafes will tell you so.